2006 Toyota Tacoma

Another impressive redesign by Toyota this year was the new 2006 Toyota Tacoma. This truck has morphed from a small to a mid-size pickup truck. You are familiar with the Tacoma's of the past. They are as reliable as the day is long, but how will the new truck compare?

I went shopping, and to be honest, I was checking out the Nissan Frontier, too. Its been redesigned and is about the same size as the new Tacoma. The Nissan has a rail system in the bed of the truck, but the Toyota has it on the deck edge up higher. I like it better as it seems as though it would make tying off items a lot easier. Also, in the bed, there are two neat lockable storage compartments nestled so they aren't noticed. Pretty slick.

The new V6 has 236hp, which is no slouch in anyone's book. The old V6 had about 190 hp I think. The standard 4-cylinder is 2.7 liters and rates 164 hp, which is more than most V6's.

There's an X-Runner available, which is more for show and go, than off road or work. My dad got the previous version, which was an S-Runner Tacoma. They are slick. Dad's is way cool, and I've seen only one X-Runner at a car show as they sell before they are around on the lot too long. A pickup that can hold .9G's on the skid pad will rival most sports cars. Basically, the X-runner has everything. The Prerunner and double cab are the top of the line for the 4x4 trucks, but they have many options. The only option I can find on the X-runner is daytime running lights.

Don't worry, the SR5 still comes loaded up with a chrome grill, color bumpers, overfenders, leather steering wheel, and variable windshield wipers. The V6 has fog lamps and the sport package includes the limited-slip rear differential. The off-road package adds larger wheels, better suspension with bilstein shocks, a locking rear differential and skid plates and tow hooks.

The TRD Sport truck is my favorite with the hood scoop, 17" wheels, nicer seats, power outlet and a neat overhead console with compass and temperature gauge.

The Tacoma isn't the little truck you see around anymore. My dad's had 4. I've only owned one Toyota truck and I drove it until the wheels fell off. But you know what? It started and ran every time. I'm sure the trucks we see on the lot today will last another generation due to Toyota's unsurpassed quality.

Another impressive redesign by Toyota this year was the new 2006 Toyota Tacoma. This truck has morphed from a small to a mid-size pickup truck. You are familiar with the Tacoma's of the past. They are as reliable as the day is long, but how will the new truck compare?

I went shopping, and to be honest, I was checking out the Nissan Frontier, too. Its been redesigned and is about the same size as the new Tacoma. The Nissan has a rail system in the bed of the truck, but the Toyota has it on the deck edge up higher. I like it better as it seems as though it would make tying off items a lot easier. Also, in the bed, there are two neat lockable storage compartments nestled so they aren't noticed. Pretty slick.

The new V6 has 236hp, which is no slouch in anyone's book. The old V6 had about 190 hp I think. The standard 4-cylinder is 2.7 liters and rates 164 hp, which is more than most V6's.

There's an X-Runner available, which is more for show and go, than off road or work. My dad got the previous version, which was an S-Runner Tacoma. They are slick. Dad's is way cool, and I've seen only one X-Runner at a car show as they sell before they are around on the lot too long. A pickup that can hold .9G's on the skid pad will rival most sports cars. Basically, the X-runner has everything. The Prerunner and double cab are the top of the line for the 4x4 trucks, but they have many options. The only option I can find on the X-runner is daytime running lights.

Don't worry, the SR5 still comes loaded up with a chrome grill, color bumpers, overfenders, leather steering wheel, and variable windshield wipers. The V6 has fog lamps and the sport package includes the limited-slip rear differential. The off-road package adds larger wheels, better suspension with bilstein shocks, a locking rear differential and skid plates and tow hooks.

The TRD Sport truck is my favorite with the hood scoop, 17" wheels, nicer seats, power outlet and a neat overhead console with compass and temperature gauge.

The Tacoma isn't the little truck you see around anymore. My dad's had 4. I've only owned one Toyota truck and I drove it until the wheels fell off. But you know what? It started and ran every time. I'm sure the trucks we see on the lot today will last another generation due to Toyota's unsurpassed quality.

Stuart Simpson [http://www.toyota-trucks-review.com]

The 2010 Toyota Tacoma

Basically the 2010 Toyota Tacoma is the same truck produced for the '09 model year. It remains a great selection due to its wide assortment of body styles and trim packages. Other great features are the fact that although the Toyota corporation has had some technical problems, it remains a very reliable pickup. Tacomas equipped with larger engines offer more power than just about any competitors, including the Chevy Colorado. Few downsides include awkward seat positioning and a noisy V-6 engine. All around they remain more than capable work trucks.

Consumers who don't need a full size pickup truck will do well buying a 2010 Toyota Tacoma. For their size they offer industry leading carrying and hauling capabilities. While not quite able to haul as much as any half-ton on the market, their size makes them highly maneuverable and allows for a more nimble handling experience. Fuel economy is another aspect that will make these trucks more appealing, while the slightly higher price tag than competitors may put off some frugal minded buyers.

Trim packages available include Base models (regular cabs), access cabs, Double cabs, SR-5, and TR-D. As stated before the basic models only come with a regular cab body style and doesn't offer a whole lot in terms of accessories. Included on base models are 15 inch steel wheels, composite bed liners, tilt steering wheels, cloth seating, and an optional CD player. Basic models are better work trucks than anything, offering the class leading capabilities, without the higher prices. Access cabs represent Toyota's mid-level trim package. Standard features include AC, full power accessories, skid plates, bench seats in the rear, 16 inch steel wheels, and lumbar support for drivers.

Going up in class and style are the Double cab models. These come with 16 inch steel wheels, more tech gadget portals, highly customizable interior fabrics and accents, along with more skid plates to protect the undercarriage. SR-5 trim packages represent a entirely different experience for their owners. They have fog lamps, very nice seating, leather steering wheels with audio controls, rear cameras for backing up, remote keyless entry, and chrome accents throughout the pickup. The off road package (TRD) has been designed to handle rugged terrain. They come with 17 inch alloy wheels, sturdier suspension, sport style seating, fender flares, and heavy duty skid plates. TRD models can also be outfitted as sports packages designed for better highway handling.

The engines available for 2010 Toyota Tacoma pickups include a 2.7 liter four cylinder that put out 159 hp, that are offered with either a five speed manual or 4 speed automatic transmission. The larger engine is a 4.0 liter V-6 capable of 236 hp, and comes with either a 6 speed manual or five speed automatic. Fuel economy for the smaller engine is 19 mpg city and 25 mpg highway, while the larger option gets 16 mpg city, and 20 mpg highway. Those numbers are relatively impressive when compared with the Chevy Colorado, but are slightly less impressive than the smaller Ford Ranger.

Crash test rating received perfect scores for both front and side impact crashes. That makes it one of the safest mid-size pickups available to consumers.

Overall, the 2010 Toyota Tacoma remains one of the best pickups in the small to mid-size class. Towing capabilities are more similar to that of a half-ton pickup than most of it's competitors. Pricing however is an area that the Tacoma remains less competitive, being offered at substantially higher numbers. Whether you're looking for a basic work truck, or a fully loaded luxury style interior there is a model to suit just about every consumer's preference.

Dan Legal is a member of the web development team that runs the website LemonFree.com Cars. LemonFree is a car search engine which currently over 1.8 million new and used cars for sale.

If your interested in purchasing a 2010 Toyota Tacoma; give LemonFree a test drive today!

The Deadly Secret That Lurks in the Early Toyota Motor Homes

To most people a Toyota motor home built in the 1980s looks like a cute and charming recreational vehicle. And for the most part this is exactly what they are. But there was a fatal flaw built into these early 1980 motor homes was that caused heartbreak and disaster for hundreds of people.

As the motor home size was expanded past 18 feet, the original Toyota pickup chassis which was only rated at 1/2 ton capacity, was simply not up to the job. Specifically the rear axle began to fail. When this happened bad things occurred to good people.

Completely empty, these little campers have a marginal carrying capacity for people and possessions. This meant that the typical motor home left the driveway in probably an overloaded condition. This was normally not a problem because the performance of the camper insured that slow speeds would be maintained on the trip. The hundred horsepower four-cylinder engine would not move three tuns of house in a very fast pace.

As the size of the camper increased it wasn't long until the rear axles began to fail. The camper manufacturers compensated by adding a second set of wheels on the axle. This created a dual set of tires on each side. However this did not correct the problem. The problem lie in the fact that the bearings and the axle itself were just not heavy-duty enough to carry the load.

Excessive load caused the bearings to overheat, fail, and then disintegrate with disastrous consequences. Victims of this problem reported that the wheels would actually leave the truck. This was such a serious problem that the national highway safety administration became involved and issued a recall of certain Toyota motor home models.

There was no way to predict when the axle would fail. Some units failed almost immediately, some units went thousands and thousands of miles, and some units have not failed yet. However any Toyota motor home without the heavy-duty axle should be considered as a suspect vehicle.

There is an easy way to tell if your Toyota RV has a safe axle. First of all, all models of Toyota RV built after 1987 were built with the upgraded safe axle. All models of Toyota motor home built in 1984 and before are required to have the upgraded axle due to the safety recall. In 1985 and 1986 some models were built with the upgraded safe axle and some were not. So it is up to you to be careful when inspecting the axle on any Toyota motor home you are considering to buy.

A simple inspection of the axle itself will tell you if it is safe or needs to be replaced. The safe axle will have six lug nuts, the unsafe axles were built with five lug nuts. The safe axle will also have a protruding center hub that has a ring of nuts around the outer edge.

If the axles on the Toyota motor home you are considering only have five lug nuts and the center does not stick out and have a ring of bolts on the center hub, keep looking for another camper to purchase.

Having lived and traveled in a Toyota Motor Home, I have fond memories of this type of RV. Discover more about the little RV at http://www.thorntonnetsales.com/toyotamotorhome.

Lee McPherron is a long time RV user, now enjoying life in a 27 foot fifth wheel full-time. He is a research writer who writes on a variety of subjects. Associate links provided could possibly result in compensation.

Protect the Interior of Your Toyota Pickup or SUV With Some Top Quality Floor Mats

If you have spent the cash to buy a nice new Toyota Pickup or SUV - do yourself and it a big favor - spend a little more and pick up a good quality set of custom TOYOTA floor mats. The mats and liners available on the web today are excellent and can keep your feet and the inside of your rig warm and dry. That's important if you are pulling your boat in and out of the water, driving around in the wet and sludge of Midwest winters, or off road for work or play.

The majority of the mats available for all Toyota vehicles are rubber and grooved, to prevent the build up of a mess on the floor, and to keep your boots or shoes out of it. The grooves help channel any spills or wet mess you might track in. Gone are the days when your entire floor got saturated and it took all winter to dry it out. The grooved mats are easy to install and remove, which makes cleaning a snap. You just dump them out, shake them out, wash them off, or use your shop vacuum, and, poof, you're done. Back in the rig they go, and off YOU go.

There are also a number of high quality carpeted mats you can pick up as well. These also install and clean easily and provide a little bit of added comfort under your feet as well. The majority have a rubber ribbed backing to keep your floor mats in place. Many also have grommets to further secure the mats and eliminate any sliding around. You can also add logos to your mats in a wide variety of styles - from GMC to sports teams to cartoon characters - all totally up to you!

It is also important to have and to know you have floor mats under your feet that are designed to stay put, and NOT bunch up underneath your accelerator or brake pedals. The last thing you ever want is to be battling or wrestling with your floor mat when you're trying to stop your vehicle. You don't want to be thinking about them at all, really!

So keep your rig safe and dry, as well as your shoes, all year long with a set of quality toyota floor mats. They come custom designed to fit your Toyota Truck or SUV, whether you're driving a 4Runner, FJ Cruiser, Highlander, Land Cruiser, RAV4, Sequoia, Hilux, Tacoma, Tundra, or any of the other great Toyota models. Check out the aftermarket web stores today and find a set just right for you!

J F Cost

2003 Toyota 4Runner Manual – How to Replace Serpentine Belt

This Toyota Manual Will Guide You of How to Replace a 2003 Toyota 4Runner Serpentine Belt

While the 2003 Toyota 4Runner came with several different engine options, the 4.0-liter and the 4.7-liter engines are the only two that use a serpentine belt to drive all the accessory pulleys. The process for changing the serpentine belt on both engines is identical; the only difference is the location of the pulleys and belt tensioner. Serpentine belts are available through Toyota or auto parts stores.Advertisement

Open the hood of the 4Runner. Locate the negative battery cable on the battery, and remove the mounting bolt with a wrench. Remove the negative cable and set it aside, isolating it from the battery while you work. Locate the serpentine belt automatic tensioner on the front of the engine. The tensioner is a spring-loaded arm with an idler pulley on the end of it. It applies the proper amount of tension to the serpentine belt, keeping it tight on all the pulleys.

Place a socket and ratchet on the mounting bolt in the center of the tensioner’s idler pulley. Turn the ratchet counterclockwise, releasing the tension on the belt. Remove the belt from the pulleys. Slowly turn the ratchet on the tensioner clockwise, allowing the tensioner to return to its free arm or home position. Install a new serpentine belt onto all the pulleys except the tensioner.Rotate the tensioner counterclockwise with your ratchet, and slide the new belt on to the idler pulley. Turn the ratchet clockwise, allowing the tensioner to tighten the new belt as you go. Remove the socket and ratchet from the idler mounting bolt.

Check the belt, making sure that the ribs on the belt and all the pulleys align correctly. An incorrectly installed serpentine belt can damage the accessories, the belt or the pulleys. Connect the negative battery cable to the negative battery terminal, and install the retaining bolt. Tighten the bolt with a socket and ratchet or wrench. Start your 4Runner and visually verify that the belt is running true over the pulleys.

You’ll need:

Wrench set
Socket set
Ratchet
Replacement serpentine belt

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199 Toyota Corolla Manual – How to Change Transmission Oil

This Toyota Manual  Will Guide You of How to Change ’99 Toyota Corolla’s Transmission Oil

Keep your Corolla shifting smoothly.

You should change your transmission oil (commonly referred to as transmission fluid) every 50,000 to 70,000 miles to keep the transmission of your ’99 Toyota Corolla in good working condition. Transmission oil is very thin and, as it is exposed to the heat of the working gears, it will lose its viscosity (ability to coat and protect gears). You can change your ’99 Toyota Corolla’s transmission oil in about an hour with a few basic tools and transmission fluid, regardless if you have a manual or automatic transmission

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Park your Toyota Corolla on a level surface.

Locate the transmission drain plug. The plug will be on the driver’s side of the transmission, near the bottom of the transmission case. Place a drain pan under the drain plug. Remove the plug using a socket wrench and 10mm Allen head socket. Let the transmission fluid drain out completely. Replace the plug and tighten it hand tight, then turn it 1/4 turn more.

Raise the engine hood and locate the transmission fluid fill spot. It will be on the passenger side of the Corolla to the rear of the engine block and will be labeled “Transmission.” Remove the cap and dipstick. Pour two quarts of transmission fluid into the fill spot using a funnel. Replace the dip stick and cover. Start the engine and let it warm to operating temperature. Shift up through all of the gears and then back down again. Leave the engine running while you go on to the next step.

Remove the transmission dipstick, wipe it clean with a rag and return the dipstick into the fill spout (all the way) before drawing it out and reading the amount of fluid on the stick. If your dipstick is not reading “Full,” add a small amount of transmission fluid. Repeat Steps 7 and 8 until your transmission dipstick reads “Full.” Add the transmission fluid in small amounts. It takes very little to reach the correct levels and if you overfill, you will have to drain the system again. Always check the transmission fluid levels with the car running and after you have shifted through all of the gears, in order to get an accurate reading.

You’ll need:

Drain pan
Socket wrench
10mm Allen head socket
3 quarts transmission fluid
Funnel
Clean rag

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Toyota Tundra Repair Manual – How to Replace Battery Cables

This Toyota Manual  Will Guide You of How to Replace Battery Cables in a Toyota Tundra

You may need to replace the battery cables if your Toyota Tundra isn’t starting up properly. Lift the hood and check the connections and the cables for wear and corrosion. Replacing the cables is pretty simple. Turn off the truck and set the parking brake before working on the battery cables.

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Locate the battery on the driver’s side just behind the headlight. Use a step stool to get in a good position to easily replace the cables if it’s too high to reach on the Toyota Tundra. Loosen the bolt on the black negative battery cable first with a box wrench or cable clamp pliers. Wriggle the cable end off the post. Repeat the process on the red positive cable. Always disconnect both battery cables, even if you’re only replacing one of them, to prevent a short in the electrical system.

Follow the negative cable to where it’s grounded on the front of the frame beside the headlight assembly. Remove the end of the cable with the wrench. Track the positive cable to its connection on the starter solenoid on the driver’s side of the engine and remove it with the wrench. Clean the posts with a small wire brush or cable cleaner. Wipe off residual dust or cleaner with a clean, dry cloth.

Attach the new positive cable first, reversing the process in Step 3. Reattach the negative cable last and start the truck to ensure the connections are working on your Toyota Tundra. After attaching the new battery cables, you’ll need to reset your clock and reprogram your radio presets, if your truck has these options. Always make sure the cables are tight at the battery, engine block and starter.

You’ll need:

Box wrench or cable pliers
Wire brush or cable cleaner
Clean cloth
Battery cables

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Toyota Tacoma Repair Manual – How to Hook Up an iPod

This Toyota Manual  Will Guide You of How to Hook Up an iPod to a Toyota Sienna

The iPod makes a perfect companion for a long road trip or your daily commute to and from work. With storage capacities ranging from 500 to 40,000 songs–based on models available as of December 2009–the iPod allows you to bring most, if not all, of your music collection with you wherever you go. One challenge, however, is listening to your music in the car.

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Because the iPod doesn’t have a large speaker that lends itself well to auto travel, you’ll need to connect it to your stereo through an auxiliary jack–a standard feature on the Toyota Sienna. Connect one end of the 3.5mm auxiliary audio cable into the headphone jack on the top of your iPod. Connect the other end of the 3.5mm auxiliary audio cable into the auxiliary audio jack on the front your car stereo. The jack will look similar to a headphone jack.

Press the “Disc — Aux” button on the stereo until the display screen shows “Aux” or “Auxiliary.” Turn your iPod on and play music like you would if you were listening through your headphones. Use your iPod to select music, skip songs and pause. Think of it as a remote control when you have it connected to your car stereo. Connecting your iPod to your car stereo will keep your iPod charged. To keep it charged, plug it into a car charger, which is an optional accessory.

You’ll need:

3.5mm auxiliary audio cable

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Toyota Tacoma Repair Manual – How to Replace the Rotor

This Toyota Manual  Will Guide You of How to Replace the Rotor in a Toyota Tacoma

If your Toyota Tacoma seems to be shaking and shuddering to a halt, chances are it’s time to replace the rotors. Rotors don’t need to be replaced often, but if they get worn down or warped from hard braking and can’t be resurfaced, then they must be replaced. Luckily, the installation is simple and you can do it in your own garage.

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Raise your Tacoma using jacks and jack stands. Block the wheels. Remove the first tire and wheel assembly. Remove the caliper mounting bolts. Slide the caliper off of the old rotor being careful not to disconnect the brake line. Hang the caliper and attached brake line from the undercarriage of the vehicle using mechanic’s wire. Pull off the anti-squeal spring (if equipped) and then remove the brake pads. Now you can remove the old rotor and set it aside. Clean the area around the hub with a damp cloth to remove corrosion and debris.

Install the new rotor into the hub. Replace the brake pads, anti-squeal spring, caliper and mounting bolts with a torque wrench or an air ratchet with an appropriate adapter. Make sure that the caliper boot isn’t wedged before you replace the wheel assembly and tire. Repeat this process for each additional rotor. Lower your Toyota, tighten and torque the lug nuts and then pump the brake until you get a firm pedal. Be sure to road test your Tundra to make sure the installation was successful.

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Toyota Manual – How to Install a Toyota Oil Filter

This Toyota Manual  Will Guide You of How to Install a Toyota Oil Filter

Changing the oil and oil filter on your Toyota is an important maintenance procedure to properly take care of the engine. Different models and engine sizes on Toyota vehicles feature a wide variety of removal and installation procedures for the engine oil filter. While Toyota Motor Corporation recommends changing the oil along with the filter between 3,000- and

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5,000-mile intervals, some enthusiasts who use synthetic oils like to change the filter only halfway through the life span of the motor oil to get more longevity out of it. Drive the Toyota up onto car ramps and apply the parking brake or apply the parking brake and then lift it with a jack and support the frame rails on jack stands.

Release the hood latch and open the hood. Remove the oil filler cap. Even if you’re not replacing the oil, the air pocket created by the oil filler cap being removed will allow the oil to escape from the oil filter more quickly. Put on the latex gloves and safety glasses. Grab the equipment and crawl under the front of the Toyota. Locate the oil filter. Most newer Toyota cars feature the filter right by the oil pan. The older Toyota trucks and SUVs may have them located on the upper passenger side of the engine near the firewall. Some of the newer trucks have them under the hood on top of the engine. Refer to the owner’s manual if necessary to locate the filter.

Place the oil drain pan directly beneath the oil filter. Place an oil filter wrench or an oil filter socket wrench on the filter. If you’re using the socket wrench, attach a ratchet to the square-drive fitting on the socket. Turn the oil filter counterclockwise to loosen it on the threads of the oil filter housing. Remove the wrench when you can finish removing the filter by hand. Oil will begin to drip from the filter as soon as the gasket seal is loose. Remove the filter completely and turn it upside down in the oil drain pan to allow excess oil inside it to spill out.

Wipe the oil filter mounting surface and threads with a shop rap. Be sure the gasket from the discarded filter did not remain behind on the mounting surface. If so, remove it by hand and rewipe the surface. Wipe off any oil that has dripped onto other components if applicable. Add a light layer of clean 5W30 motor oil to the gasket of the new filter using your finger. Hand-thread the filter onto the oil filter mounting threads and tighten the filter clockwise with your fingers. Do not use a wrench or socket wrench to tighten the filter. Turn the filter 1/4 turn more with your hand when you can no longer tighten it with your fingers.

Crawl out from underneath, replace the engine oil fill cap and then run the engine for one to three minutes. This will pump oil through the new filter. While the vehicle is running, visually inspect underneath the Toyota to ensure that no oil is leaking from the filter area. Shut the Toyota off and then check the dipstick in the engine compartment. Add the required amount of 5W30 oil into the oil fill by removing the cap again and placing a funnel into the neck. Add until the oil registers full on the dipstick.

Older Toyota car models, like the Camry and Corolla, feature oil filters that used to be located beneath the manifold. This location did not require lifting the vehicle in order to access it. However, the manifold would have to be cool in order to grab the filter without burning your hand accidentally.

You’ll need:

Car ramps or jack and jack stands
Oil drain pan
Replacement filter
Oil filter wrench or oil filter socket wrench
Ratchet
5W30 motor oil
Funnel
Shop rags
Latex gloves
Safety glasses

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1994 Toyota Camry Manual – How to Replace a Power Steering Belt

This Toyota Manual  Will Guide You of How to Replace a 1994 Toyota Camry Power Steering Belt

On a 1994 Toyota Camry, the power steering can seem weak or non-existent if the belt wears considerably or breaks. Replacing the belt driving the power steering pump can be completed without removing the pump from the engine or removing other significant parts of the system. After the correct diagnosis that the belt is the culprit behind your suspected problem, replacing the belt can be accomplished in a relatively short amount of time with standard tools.

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Place a large container under the vehicle to catch the power steering fluid. Remove the clamp from the fluid return hose and remove the hose from the power steering pump. Remove the bolt holding the pressure line to the power steering pump. Once the bolt is removed, move the line away from the pump. The line has two sealing washers that need to be saved for installation of the line or replaced if they show signs of wear. Loosen the adjuster bolt and pivot bolts on the pump. Once these bolts are loosened, the power steering pump can be moved slightly and the power steering belt can be removed.

Route the new belt and replace the two pivot bolts on the pump and tighten the adjuster. Install the pressure line to the power steering pump, making sure to use the two sealing washers. Install the fluid return hose back to the power steering pump using the clamp. Fill up the power steering fluid reservoir with fluid.

You’ll need:

Socket set
Drain pan
Pliers

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Toyota Tacoma Repair Manual – How to Replace Air Filter

This Toyota Manual  Will Guide You of How to Replace an Air Filter in a Toyota Tacoma

Changing the air filter on a Toyota Tacoma is one of the easiest maintenance task for this car. Air filters clean the air that flows to the engine and it can increase gas mileage and car performance. Car manufacturers recommend changing air filters every 30,000 miles or 24 months. Change the filter every 12 months or 15,000 miles when the vehicle is driven in extremely dusty conditions.

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Turn off the car before changing the air filter. Don’t start the car once the air filter has been removed, it acts as a barrier were the car to backfire. Locate the box that houses the air filter. Look in the center on the passenger side of the car for rectangular-shaped black box that has an accordion-type tube attached to it. Undo the clips that keep the housing lid secure. Lift the lid and compress the accordion-type tubing towards the engine.

Remove the old filter from the housing unit. Clean any leaves or debris out of the box. Replace the old filter with a new filter that is made for the specific make and model of your Toyota Tacoma. Use a K&N filter, part number 33-2306, for Tacoma’s that are manufactured during the years of 2005 to 2008. Locate early model air filter part numbers online or at your local auto part store. Pull the lid back over to the air filter housing unit, and snap it in place. Reattach the clips to secure the lid.

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Toyota Camry Manual – How to Recharge Air Conditioning with Freon

This Toyota Manual  Will Guide You of How to Recharge Air Conditioning with Freon in a Toyota Camry. Recharging an air conditioner may make it blow cold air again. You can do this if your Camry is compatible with R134 refrigerant. Some models made in or before 1995 take R12 refrigerant instead of the newer R134 refrigeran

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Locate the Low Pressure Side port. It is near the air conditioner condenser. It is usually near the firewall on the passenger side. It has a black cap marked L. Remove this cap. Determine if your car uses R134 or R12 refrigerant if your car was made in or before 1995. Models using R12 refrigerant will have screw type connectors on the both the High Pressure Side and Low Pressure Side lines. If this is the case, you must have your Camry air conditioning system retrofitted to use R134 refrigerant.

Test your air conditioning system for leaks. You can find kits that will help you to find leaks in the system and possibly seal small leaks at your local auto parts store. If you see any visible damage, take your Camry to a professional to repair the leaks and recharge the air conditioning system with refrigerant. Check your air conditioning system pressure using an automotive air conditioning pressure gauge. In order to get an accurate reading, the air conditioner has be turned on the coldest setting and set on the highest fan speed.
Perform the Recharge

Make sure you read and understand all of the directions on the refill kit. Some kits may have specific directions that you must follow. Connect the refill hose to the connector on the Low Pressure Side of the air conditioning system. Because the connectors are different sizes, the refill kit hose should fit only on the Low Pressure Side port. Additionally, the High Pressure Side connector will usually have a red cap or be marked with an H or the word High.

Allow the system to pull the refrigerant out of the can. Make sure the can is upright. Know that it may take 10 minutes for the can to empty. Check the pressure. If it is still low, repeat steps two and three using a new can of R134 refrigerant. Shut the valve on the refill hose and remove the hose from the connector when the air conditioning system is fully charged. Recap the Low Pressure Side port valve. Leave the air conditioner running for at least 20 minutes. This allows the refrigerant to circulate throughout the air conditioning system.

Tips & Warnings

Protect your eyes and skin by wearing safety goggles and gloves. Don’t try to recharge the air conditioning system if a license is required in your area to purchase R134 refrigerant. In this case, you have to allow a professional to recharge it. Never try to mix R134 and R12 refrigerant. This causes damage to the air conditioning system and may cause bodily injury. It is possible to retrofit a car that uses R12 refrigerant to accept R134. Only work on the Low Pressure Side of the air conditioning system. The air conditioner is under high pressure and trying to add refrigerant to the High Pressure Side can cause an explosion resulting in injury or death. Never release refrigerant into the air. This is a federal crime. Take any excess refrigerant to a professional for disposal.

You’ll need:

Goggles
Gloves
Leak detection kit
Pressure gauge
R134 refill kit

Prepare to Recharge

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Toyota Highlander Manual – How to Replace a Stabilizer Link

This Toyota Manual Will Guide You of How to Replace a Stabilizer Link in a Toyota Highlander

The Highlander has a unibody design like a car which provides better handling, a quieter cabin, increased safety and easier access in and out for passengers. It appeals to buyers who want the SUV image and utility but prefer the feel of a car. Toyota debuted the Highlander in 2001 with an impressive list of standard options. The following steps guide you through replacing a stabilizer link on models with the 2.4L engine.

Remove the Stabilizer Bar and Link

Raise the vehicle on a rack on or secure supports. Remove the left front wheel and tire, then take off the nuts and remove the stabilizer link on both sides. Steady the ball joint by placing a 6mm hexagon wrench on the stud.

Take out the left and right side stabilizer link assembly. Disconnect the front suspension arm assembly, and then separate the gear assembly for the rank and pinion power steering.

Remove the four bolts then remove the following: both the left side and right sidefront stabilizer Number 1 brackets, the two front stabilizer bar bushings and the stabilizer bar front from the front suspension sub-assembly cross-member.
Install the Stabilizer Bar and Link

Install the two front stabilizer bar bushings to the Number 1 bracket. Then connect the bracket to the right side of the stabilizer bar front. Position the busing to the inner side of the stopper on the bar.

Put the stabilizer bar front in place and install the four bolts to secure it to the front suspension sub-assembly.

Reinstall the steering gear for the rack and pinion power steering. Replace the front suspension arm on both sides.

Set the stabilizer bar link in place. Finger-tighten the two fasteners. Torque the fasteners to 55 foot pounds.

Remount the front wheel and tighten the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and check the tire pressure.

Test drive the vehicle to assure proper steering and handling. Arrange to have a professional check the alignment.

Check the specifications for the link fasteners and make sure the necessary specialty tools are readily available. Obtain the necessary replacement parts before starting the work.

things you’ll need:

Mechanic’s toolset, including a full socket set, wrenches and screwdrivers
Torque wrench
Ball joint separator
Replacement parts
6mm hexagon wrench

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1991 Toyota Corolla Manual – How to Remove Starter

This Toyota Manual  Will Guide You of How to Remove a 1991 Toyota Corolla Starter

Occasionally, the starter in the 1991 Toyota Corolla would encounter problems, especially if the vehicle had been left in the heat. This problem was commonly discussed in many of the Toyota chat sites, including the one listed below in the references section. If your vehicle is having starter problems, you can remove the part yourself in less than an hour and save yourself the expense and time of having to take the car to a repair shop.

How to Remove a 1991 Toyota Corolla Starter

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery of your Corolla with an open-end wrench and move the cable so that it does not come in contact with any metal parts.

Place a floor jack underneath the front passenger side of your vehicle and raise it up until you can put a jack stand under the front axle, then lower the floor jack so the weight of the car is resting on the jack stand.

Locate the starter near the firewall on the passenger side of the vehicle below the intake manifold.

Detach the electrical wire connectors from the starter with a socket wrench and move the wires out of the way.

Disconnect the starter from the engine by using a socket wrench to remove the nuts holding it in place and remove from the engine.

To avoid injuries, never attempt to remove the starter while the motor is still hot.

things you’ll need:

Open-end wrench
Floor jack
Jack stand
Socket wrench set

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Toyota Tercel Manual – How to Replace a Catalytic Converter

This Toyota Manual  Will Guide You of How to Replace a Catalytic Converter on a Toyota Tercel

The first thing you can do to replace the catalytic converter in your Toyota Tercel is forget about the cheaper universal fit catalytic converter at the auto parts stores. Although this may seemingly save you money for the part, you’re going to have to buy adapters or figure out how to make that universal fit converter fit like a direct fit converter. A direct fit converter for a Tercel will have a two-point flange on either side and will do just as its label describes: fit directly. In the long run it will save you time, money, and will work better for your Tercel since it was specifically designed for it.

Lift the Toyota Tercel on a car lift all the way up.

Put on the cutting glasses, and light the acetylene torch using a striker. Cut the bolts and nuts from the catalytic converter from the flange(s) on the converter side. This way you will not incur damage to the flanges bolted to the converter flanges. Cut the bolt heads (with the torch) or the nuts flush to the converter flange.

Turn the torch off, switch over to safety glasses, and knock out the bolts from the converter side of the flanges using the hammer and a long stemmed punch. If they do not punch through, you may need to relight the torch and cut into the bolt hole a little deeper.

Remove the old converter.

Pick the old gaskets off of the pipe flanges on both side using a pick or awl.

Clean the surface of the flat part of the pipe flanges on both sides using an angled die grinder with a sanding disk.

Place the new gaskets onto the small pipe outlet protruding from the pipe flanges.

Check the exhaust flow of the new catalytic converter. It will be stamped on the shell or shields of the converter and be easy to see. There will be an arrow pointing in the direction of the exhaust flow or an A and B marking. A would indicate towards the front of the motor, and B would indicate towards the back of the Tercel.

Attach the converter flanges to the pipe flanges and place the bolts into the flanges (in any direction) in this fashion: bolt head with a flat washer through the flanges, then a lock washer and nut.

Tighten the bolts and nuts holding one end with a wrench and tightening with an air ratchet. Tighten each bolt a little bit, switch to the next one, and continue this pattern until all four nuts and bolts have seated the flanges tight together.

Remove tools and lower the Tercel on the lift. Start it up, raise it up again, and check for any possible leaks coming from the flange connections. If so, tighten the bolts some more.

things you’ll need:

Car lift
Acetylene torch
Striker
Safety glasses and cutting glasses
Hammer
Long step punch
Angled die grinder with sanding disk
Pick or awl
Replacement gaskets
Direct fit converter
4 8mm Bolts, 1-1/2? long
4 8mm Flat washers
4 8mm Lock washers
4 8mm Nuts
Air ratchet
Metric hand wrench set

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Toyota Tundra Manual – How to Replace the Rotor

This Toyota Manual  Will Guide You of How to Replace the Rotor in a Toyota Tundra

The Toyota Tundra utilizes brake discs, also known as rotors, in combination with a caliper and brake pad assembly to bring your vehicle to a stop. If the rotors get warped or worn down, it can cause your Tundra to shudder and pulse when you hit the brakes. It’s fairly easy to swap the rotors yourself and keep some extra money in your pocket.

Jack up your Toyota Tundra. Block the wheels that you aren’t working on to keep your Tundra from rolling while you work. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the first tire and wheel assembly.

Remove the brake hose from the caliper and then quickly plug the end of the hose to prevent spillage. Next, remove the two caliper mounting bolts. This allows you to then pull the caliper assembly off of the old rotor.

Clean the area around the hub with a damp cloth to remove any dirt or corrosion. Install the new rotor onto the hub.

Lubricate the caliper slides and bolts with lithium grease and then install the caliper and tighten the bolts. Torque the caliper bolts to 90 ft. lbs. (123 Nm).

Reconnect the brake hose to the caliper and torque to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm). Refill the brake fluid and then bleed the brakes. Install the wheel assembly and tire.

Repeat this process for each additional rotor. When you’re finished, lower your vehicle, double check the brake fluid level and reconnect the negative battery cable.

Pump the brakes until you get a firm pedal and then be sure to road test your Toyota Tundra to make sure that the installation was successful.

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Toyota Corolla Manual – How to Replace the Distributor

This Toyota Manual  Will Guide You of How to Replace the Distributor in a Toyota Corolla

The Toyota Corolla, a mid-sized family sedan, quit using distributors with 1998 models. If you have engines from earlier years, the 1.6L and 1.8L had distributors. If you’re handy with basic tools, then you can replace the distributor in your Corolla.

Trace the spark plug wires to the distributor, which is on the right side of the engine block as you face it. Unhook the cable from the negative battery terminal.

Pull off the air cleaner hose as well as all spark plug wires from the spark plugs; leave the spark plug wires connected to the distributor cap. Label them to avoid mix-up.

Mark the rotor’s position in relation to the cylinder head. Remove the distributor hold-down bolt(s) with a wrench. Lift out the distributor assembly. Get rid of the old O-ring from the distributor shaft.

Get the No. 1 piston to the Top Dead Center (TDC) mark by turning the crankshaft bolt clockwise; you’ll find it in the pulley near the bottom of the engine. Use a long-handled ratchet (breaker bar) to turn the engine. The timing mark on the crankshaft pulley must line up with the 0 mark on the No. 1 indicator on the timing belt cover.

Install the new O-ring, greasing lightly; the O-ring will be a separate purchase from the distributor. Align the distributor with the line of the housing.

Place the new distributor into the cylinder head. Now align the rotor with the mark you made on the cylinder head. Use a wrench and tighten the hold-down bolts lightly. You can order part number A18477417 for a 1993 1.8L Corolla from Parts Train (see Resources); be ready to give your engine size and model year.

Reconnect the spark plug wires to the correct spark plugs. Also reconnect the distributor connectors, the air cleaner hose and the negative battery cable. Connect the negative battery cable. Reset digital equipment such as radio memory and the clock. Tighten down the hold-down bolts.

Connect the negative battery cable. Reset digital equipment such as radio memory and the clock. Tighten down the hold-down bolts.

things you’ll need:

Wrench
Breaker bar
O-ring
Distributor

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Toyota Tundra Manual – How to Change Brake Light

This Toyota Manual  Will Guide You of How to Change a Toyota Tundra Brake Light

Burned-out brake lights are not a difficult thing to fix on your Toyota Tundra. All you have to do is remove the light cover, pull out the burned-out light bulb and replace it with a new one. You must have properly working brake lights when you are driving on the road. Your brake lights let other drivers know when you are stopping.

Unscrew the screws that are securing the brake light cover to the body of the Tundra.

Pull the brake light cover off the body of the Tundra. Place the screws in the brake light cover and set it on the bed of the truck.

Pull the burned-out light bulb out of the light fixture and discard it.

Insert the new brake light bulb into the light fixture. Pump the Tundra’s brakes to make sure the new bulb is working correctly.

Replace the brake light cover on the body of the Tundra and replace the screws.

You can purchase the brake light bulbs specific for your Tundra at any auto parts store.

things you’ll need:

Screwdriver
New light bulb

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Toyota Tacoma Manual – How to Replace a Wheel Stud

This Toyota Manual  Will Guide You of How to Replace a Wheel Stud in a Toyota Tacoma

If you find that someone stripped or broke one of the wheel nuts and studs on your Toyota Tacoma, you need to replace it. Keep the parts in the order of their removal and you’ll have an easy time reassembling the wheel once you’ve replaced the stud.

Suggest Edits

Purchase new studs to replace the wheel stud on your Toyota Tacoma. If you don’t know the size, remove the stud and take it to the auto parts store for a match.

Look for the jack and tools behind the seat back in the regular model and under the rear seat in the double and access cab.

Jack up the vehicle, placing your jack closest to the stud that you need to replace. Block the tire diagonally across from the wheel you jacked up. Remove the tire. Take off the caliper and the rotor on the front wheels so you can access the hub.

Take off the drum brakes and parking brake shoe if you replace a rear tire stud in the 2005 or 2006 model. On earlier models, you just need to disconnect the cable for the parking brake and remove the shoe.

Pound on the head of the stripped or broken wheel stud. This should push it out the back. It’s the same process whether you took off the hub or left it on the vehicle.

Insert the new wheel stud back into the hole. Put wheel bolts on the stud with the angle side of the bolt outward and tighten the bolts until you seat the new stud. Use an impact wrench to make the job go faster. You need to check the back to see if it seated properly and is even with the other studs.

Remove the extra bolts used to seat the stud and reassemble everything in reverse order. If you replaced the wheel stud on your Toyota Tacoma properly, all the wheel studs should be even and ready for the nut or wheel bolt.

things you’ll need:

Jack, lug wrench and jack tools
Blocks
Replacement stud
Vise-grips
Open end wrench
Crescent wrench
Dead blow hammer or heavy mallet
Extra wheel bolts and wheel nuts
Impact wrench (if available) or 1/2-inch long handled drive socket wrench

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